City of Rocks State Park - New Mexico Climbing - Bouldering Guide
Southern New Mexico City of Rocks Bouldering Guide
Author: Lowell Stevenson - Published by: VCRUX - paperback - 1st Edition 2009 - ISBN 978-0-557-21156-2
Freedom, respect and most of all access for the climbing species. Meat eating cracks, tendon bursting finger pockets and crystal-coated crimps await the taste of your blood. Highballs, lowballs, overhangs and true vert. on volcanic monoliths will hone any climber. Take a journey through historical and remarkable boulder problems in the land of enchantment. AVAILABLE this LATE WINTER Join the Newsletter to find out when Click Here
Directions
From Deming, NM take US 180 northwest 24 miles; then go northeast on NM 61 for 4 miles to the park access road.
Gate Hours
7 am - 9 pm
Land
1230 acres
Elevation
5,250 feet
Precipitation
15.7 inches/year
Temperature
January 53/25
April 69/38
July 86/56
October 71/41
Permits & Fees
Make sure to pay your park fees promptly. The Rangers don't like slackers.
$5.00 per vehicle daily
$10.00 per vwhicle over-night
Climbing History
This unique volcanic crag has a rich history with climbers dating back to the late 1960's. Before today’s new and mutant bouldering fanatics hit the scene. Several climbing pioneers did visit City of Rocks in the past and in the mid 1970's the Southwestern Mountaineers group would frequent the crag with ropes and racks. Sewing up the vertical cracks and top roping. Other climbers like Bob Murray and John Sherman soon followed during the 1980's and 1990's bouldering era. Although boulder problems were being climbed. They were rarely named, graded and recorded. In fact they are forgotten and most commonly re-discovered and claimed to be a First Ascent (FA) by the next climber. But in most cases it should be called First Recorded Ascent (FRA). Because it's highly possible that the boulder problem or route has been sent in the past. I have gone to great lengths to contact almost every well know climber that came to City of Rocks to developed and or attempt new boulder problems. I've made numerous phone calls, sent emails and have had person-to-person meetings. Climbers were eager to discuss amazing problems, classics and unfinished projects and gave me the go ahead to print the guide. If you have something to contribute to the up and coming guidebook being published Send it to beta@vcrux.com make sure to include detailed information for publishing notes. Guidebook Publications
SoNew CoR Bouldering Guide - Lowell Stevenson
Stone Crusade - John Sherman
Rock Climbing - New Mexico & Texas - Dennis R. Jackson
Description
City of Rocks is just that. A group of condensed 10' - 35' boulders sticking out of the ground in the middle of a grassy desert meadowland, which resembles city-building structures. Tall steep faced boulders and thumbs of rock, odd volcanic plug like formations that look made to boulder on, and are. The rock has a quality volcanic patina. This 680 acre State Park has an abundant amount of face climbs on 12-30 foot tall monoliths of rock. The crag also contains overhangs under 45 degrees. Limited amounts of huecos can be found but do exist. The more common rock feature will be sharp crimps, knobs, mono pockets and iron plates/flakes. There's also a variety of vertical cracks (called "meat eater's") that range from tight finger tip seams to deep punching fist size widths. A repedative rock feature is sections littered with small mono pockets and divets called "Buckshot". Which is a strong quality welded patina. Although both clean and fixed anchors are not allowed to be used in the park. A rope is handy to descend off most monoliths and is permitted. Some boulder problems require V0-V1 downclimbs and others require jumping from one boulder to the next.
Climbing Ethics
No chipping or doctoring holds. Only white powdered magnesium chalk is allowed in limited amounts. Currently no fixed or clean protection can be used. In fact, the park would only like ropes to be used for descent. Top roping, rappelling and other 5th Class rope techniques are not encouraged. So bring plenty of crash pads and spotters. Don't be a jerk. Keep the crag open to climbing by following the ethics in place. Leave your gear at home and come ready to boulder. The, "I didn't know" BS needs to stop.
Camping
The park is set up for car camping, tents, RV's etc. it contains 52 developed camp sites and 10 electrical camp sites.
Events
News
Faywood Hotsprings is CLOSED - I don't know the whole true story so I'll be brief. I heard the owner died.
Maps
Park Map
Park Brochure
Foot Note:
The State Parks website say's "Rock formations like those at the park exist in only 6 other places in the world" It's hard to convince a climber or any explorer that such geological limitations exists. It might be wise to add the word "currently" to the sentence. Anyway, the reason I brought that up is because the crag has a certain similar aspect involved with FA's (First Ascents). Fact is, almost anything you climb has already been sent by a previous climber. Just because the rain has washed away the chalk or the crag feels wild and undiscovered, doesn't mean it hasn't been done. Just like the previous statement. Adding the word "Recorded" changing the term to (First Recorded Ascent) would also be wise. To add one more insulting note: Case and point at Hueco Tanks. Where scientists claim a rare plant has been discovered in the crag "the only one in the world". I don't need to explain my opinion on that subject; you should get the point by now. Statements like these are only claims, not facts.