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2 MONTHS AWAY !
Official City of Rocks Climbing Event
In Proud Cooperation with New Mexico State Parks
Help Support New Mexico State Parks Click Here

 

TiMe tO YaNk DoWn Oct. 25th-26th 2008
 
No excuses - Start a car pool and get your hyde to the BoulderFest!
Crash Pad - Chalk Bag - Climbing Shoes - Harness (optional) - Camping Gear - Food - Gas Money
YOU'RE ALMOST THERE ALREADY!
 
DiG tHEse PhOtOs fRoM   VCRUX     &    0Friction
 
FREE GEAR & PRIZES SPONSORED BY:
prAna  -  Nicros  -  Climb On!  -  Organic Bouldering Mats  -   evolve   -   Desert Climbers   -   Mad Rock   -   ODUB   -   Metolius
 
 
     
    
 
 Need new gear? Check the companies out listed above first. The ones above are on your side!
Become a 2009 Sponsor Click Here
 

Boulder Problems of the Moment

This is the boulders backside at picnic area #15.
 
1. Boast of Cassiopeia V8
2. Northern Arete V2
3. Cookie Master V2

 

Philosophy
Crag ethics are strict. A climbers main goal beyond climbing the routes and

boulder problems is to leave no trace. To arrive like the breeze and to float

away like a feather. Leaving no scars on the domain they visit. This is why

most climbers faithfully stick to bouldering. Local climbers and hard core

activists are very proud to have soloed or bouldered every line listed and

established. Climbers fully endorse the no bolt policy in place and reinforce

it with this loyal attitude. When climbing at the City of Rocks State Park

please follow these ethics by remembering the following. This area may

seem undiscovered, un-tamed… or new. It’s not. Climbers have already

been here for many decades and have established an underground society

dedicated to preserve the crag for the future of recreational climbing.

The undiscovered ambience the crag has to offer is the way climbers like it.

Help keep it this way by thinking green and following all rules.

ETHICS

 

  • Chipping is against the law.
  • Fixed anchors are forbidden.
  • Natural and artificial protection is allowed in moderate use.
  • Use chalk sparingly. Never use colored chalk other than white.
  • Tick marks are forbidden.
  • Do not trample or prune cactus, bushes, trees or any vegatation.
  • Help pick up trash during your visit.

 
City of Rocks BoulderFest is a VCRUX Registered Trademark Copyright 2008 All Rights Reserved

 

Jason Waldman spotting Michael Miller 1967 - 2008

(V)ertical

 Crux - a puzzle that can be solved.

City of Rocks NM BoulderFest 2008

"Calling all Climbers"

Do Not Miss this years CoR BoulderFest for hard core climbers!It's a FREE event sponsored by prAna - Nicros - Climb On! - Organic Bouldering Mats - Desert Climbers -ODUB -Metolius and us. Free Prizes and boody gear. Check it Out. More Info

City of Rocks Bouldering Guide

A long over-due bouldering guide will be published in late 2008. Hopes are to have the guide out in time for the CoR BoulderFest this year. Beta on where you can get your copy will be out soon.

McKelligon Canyon Transformed

Although the routes are open to climbers in the amphitheater area. Trail systems are currently down due to a large deep culvert dug into the earth by the EP Road Services. New bridges and up-grades are being made to improve this area. We'll keep you posted.

VCRUX vs. MountainProject

We really like what MountainProject is doing. So all climbing data will be added to MP.com by the end of this year as a back-up. Climbers will have new options when it comes to downloading our topos etc.

Local Threads (non-profit)

Bouldering 24-7, StoneMasters and local HT and PB threads are out. More Info

Desert Climbers 

So you all know about the new store in El Paso on the West-Side that sells climbing gear, Right? Greg and his friendly staff from Desert Climbers are ready to help you when it comes to buying gear locally. And the good stuff like Petzl, Metolius, La Sportiva etc. Here's the catch. They have good brands/prices. So toss your mail order catalogs away and stop browsing the internet for cheap gear and ify deals. Support your local climbing store. Go by and visit them on your next rest day. You'll be suprised. Tell them VCRUX sent you.

 

Todd Skinner

Was the most diversely accomplished rock climber of his generation. His achievements were documented in film and magazines in 12 languages. He accomplished more than 300 first ascents in 26 countries around the world and established new climbs at the highest level of difficulty. He relished the challenge of all aspects of rock climbing, from bouldering to Himalayan peaks, but most of all dreamed about Big Walls that could be free climbed in all corners of the globe. We are deeply saddened to report that on October 23, 2006, Todd Skinner was killed while descending fixed ropes on Leaning Tower in Yosemite. Thank you for your interest in Todd and his legacy. We hope you enjoy looking through this photographic documentary of his climbing life. www.ToddSkinner.com 

 

El Paso, TX
Updated Wednesday, August 27, 2008 8:51 PM
Mostly Cloudy
Mostly Cloudy		74°FHigh: 89°F
Low: 68°F
Wind: 6 mph
Humidity: 62%
MSN WeatherData provided by Foreca

 

Pena Blanca is a great place to go night bouldering. All you need is your regular gear plus a headlamp. Hone your climbing senses in the dark.

 

"Always in search for new and harder boulder problems"

Skin Kit Time

 

Nail Clippers - Coach's Tape - Krazy Glue - Emery Board - Neosporin - Cool pouch to put them in

 

Climbing season it starting up. And nothing can ruin a day of climbing worse than a hand or finger injury. There's a wide range of injuries and wounds a climber may get. It also depends on the crags itself. Each climbing area seems to have its very own special injury or wound (i.e. Hueco Tanks has the infamous bloody flapper). Certain major injuries and wounds end a climbing day no matter what. Climbing with a major injury or wound can prolong the healing process and in worst cases end your climbing career for good. Minor injuries and wounds like the bloody flapper, sprained finger and so on can be over come with a simple Hand & Finger Repair Kit. In my days it was called a Gobis Kit. Not many climbers even know what a Gobis is. Sherman talks about the bloody flapper and how to repair it in his 1st edition guidebook on page 21. In short he explains how to cut off the dead flapper skin with nail clippers. Then tape it up with coach’s tape and glue the tape shut with Krazy Glue (non-toxic brand). Many things have changed since then but just like the common cold. Not much has changed for healing injuries and wounds.

Here's a perfect example of a basic flapper. Notice other pads on this hand show wear and skin peeling. This can promote flappers. That's why it's good to file them down with an emery board. Climbers also tend to think tough burly dry skin it stronger. However tough burly flexible skin is better. Try to find a grease free lotion like Hoof Maker or similar products. Use this lotion after climbing in large amounts. Most climbers use magnesium chalk, which penetrates deep into skin pours and can damage it just like dirt does to a rope. Wash your hands repeatedly after climbing sessions. Using hot water and antibacterial soap. This also takes care of the bird crap and whatever else could have been on the holds. Applying your favorite lotion in abundant amounts on rest days and after climbing can really improve the strength of your skin tissue.

Here's a perfect example of a bloody flapper. Ouch! Can you feel the pain? It's very rare that a climber can continue to stay on the route or boulder problem once this has happened. Resulting in a botched attempt. But there are also those times. When a climber finishes the route or boulder problem, only to notice a bloody flapper was inflected during the send. Then the pain sets in.

Here's a perfect example of a series of bloody flappers on fingertips. What can you do to stop the bleeding right away to continue climbing? First off. You should wait for about 10 minutes or more before resuming your climbing day. The bleeding must be stopped and the wounds need to be cleaned. There will also be a window of pain that should diminish. By the way you don't stop the bleeding with tape. Clean the wounds with water removing both blood and chalk from the area(s). Now it's your choice? You can tape up and keep climbing with a special tape wrap we'll talk about later on. Or you can glue the wounds shut then tape up and climb on. There's a debate over which is better. I actually do both and or based on the occasion. For example. If the wound dries up quickly there should be no need for glue. But if it continues to leak blood it would be better to glue it shut. In some cases the glue also help the flapper reunite with it's original home. But most of the time the skin will never be reconnected and is better off being eaten (which is the classic climbers way to take care of the dead skin). Ahhh so tasty.

Knuckle Buster

Photos courtesy www.bloodyflapper.com make sure to go check them out!

 

How to Tape Up Coming Soon...

Climbing Dictionary - terms climbers use in alphabetical order in .pdf format. See one missing? Contact the guy who made it and might add yours.

Feedback

 

hey i just wanted to say thanks for building and maintaining this website. been bouldering with friends for about 6 months now out at pena blanca and your maps provide a great tool. thanks, mr. wilson

 

Great site man. Keep up the good work. El Paso needs more open climbing areas. Alex H.

 

Here at nmsu the wall is boring. Thanks for the free organ bouldering guide. I never knew there was so much. I go there as much as I can hope to see you there. Thomas R.

I won't even Climbing with you!
I'm getting real tired of these foolish new age climbers that insist on tying into the so called "belay loop"! First off. It's not called a belay loop. It's called a Utility Loop. I don't care how far the word has spread. I have manufactured harnesses. I have also repaired numerous brands. I know exactly what the loop was made for by the manufacture. And what it is being miss-used for by certain un-educated climbers. It basically holds the two parts of the harness together. Yes, it's that simple. And no. It's not made for you the climber to tie into on or belay someone’s life on. It is simply a loop that can be used "if needed" for a backup. In other words a Utility Loop. In this photo. The manufacture even explains this to the user with drawings to show you how to tie in. Like if you didn’t already know. Or should anyway. So let's go over it from scratch for the ones who forgot. What is the first most important rule when claiming to be a 5th Class climber? Come on its Old School folks. "Never trust a single piece of gear." Unfortunately this is how our fellow climber Todd Skinner perished. Not to mention. You should have put it together when your belay device is turned sideways. Both the ATC style belays or 8-Ring clipped into the Loop would face the ropes sideways. One up and one down. THIS IS WRONG! Even the new and poplular Petzl GriGri would face sideways. WHICH IS WRONG! I don't care what fool tries to explain some cross load non-sense from the most extreme calculations. This is your life not some climbing magazine or movie. When tying into your harness the correct way. If your waist belt breaks you would still be tied into your leg loops. Which by the way holds over 80% of the weight and impact(s). And the idea works vice-versa. Hence the fact that you followed the ultimate golden rule of 5th Class Climbing. Which is once again "Never trust a single piece of gear." NEVER TIE INTO OR BELAY OFF ONE SINGLE LOOP, NEVER!

 

In Climbing Magazine Issue #269 on pages 46-47 is another example of how Europe is damaging safety standards in the U.S. It shows the Petzl GriGri being used attached to the utility loop on a harness. The logic is the GriGri should be turned a certain way. So do many other brands of auto-belay devices. At this point when large brand named companies are publicly showing people incorrect safety techniques. It's not very hard to prove with simple math and physics how wrong they are. But it's very hard to change book taught people. You be the judge with elementary common sense. Trust 1 or 2 points? How many more climbers have to die using this system before climbers get it? No excuse can defend this foolish and lazy habit that needs to be rehabilitated.

DISCLAIMER

VCRUX.com is not a suitable source of information to start climbing. Rock climbing is a sport with great potential for danger. If you are new to climbing, We recommend that you begin by learning the basics from a qualified guide to teach them. This website and its contents are not designed as an instruction tool. Climbing is dangerous, and you should always climb within your ability, after carefully judging the safety of the route. Failure for you to follow these conditions may result in injury or death. VCRUX.com is not responsible for your actions, your gear, pitons, bolts and runners, loose rock, animal/insect attacks etc. you are. So Climb Safe!

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